ONE SENSUALIST & THREE UNIQUE PROPERTIES...
GUEST HOUSE ONE: BENTOTA
BENTOTA
Five to-be traveling companions met, in a seeming miracle of timing at the airport in Colombo, Sri Lanka within only some few minutes. We from India; Joel & Nana from Bali; Edward from San Francisco. Some OTHER planned & facilitated this.
We kibitzed around a cash machine as we used our debit cards to acquire Rupees before connecting with Jim (Shadrack) our driver.. This commodious van was to play a sixth compadre. It was a long drive on dark night, with rather weary attempts at conversation, mostly directed toward Jim, being the important unknown to we who had years of friendship. We were in new territory... except for Joel, whose 75th birthday is the genesis of this travel... a year late...
A gate in our headlight... raining, a gate wanting opening ... We're getting wet! We are, after all, on a jungle beach, on west coast shore of Sri Lanka... during the rainy season.
Suddenly the staff appeared giving us flashlights and to use, while they sloshed ahead to light our accommodations.
Next morning we summon tea by ringing the big bell on a fat-tasseled pull hanging over the table on the open veranda between the two suites we couples where occupying. We would meet there for the next five mornings (except when it was too wet), feeling a bit pampered to have several good looking guys at our service.
In a nearby building, Edward had a suite, alongside the dining room where we would have dinners.
Our suites were on either side of a gallery which extended up into to a second floor.
We soon realized that the large lawns & the adjacent garden were also used as a set for rather elaborate pre-wedding photo shoots. Those became our entertainment as our breakfast table was laid in view of the action of crew of photographers & assistants moving light reflectors, while the couples took direction for poses to create action vignettes. Usually with the bride's mother to chaperone. This is obviously some sort of "thing"... to record the preparations of the ceremony, which suggested even more elaboration, since there seem to be themes, varying from sedate nature images to over-the-top "Bollywood" costumes!
This setting over the breakfast table is a good place to to introduce the ensemble who have collected to make this journey.
Joel Singer was/is James Broughton's husband & collaborator of 25 years... James, poet & experimental filmmaker, is the subject of Stephen Silha's 2013 film, BIG JOY.
Many stories between, but Joel & Nan are newlyweds... we attended their wedding last summer in Marin County. Nana is Indonesian, born in Java... who we are just getting to know for his many talents & skills from botany & native medicinal plants to cosmetology & massage. He has as well a fine capability to suss the best quality & varieties of tropical fruit in early morning markets for breakfasts!
Edward Guthman is a retired film critic & writer for the SF Chronicle, with logical connection to these filmmakers. He's made films as well...
The breakfasts here were quite incredible in their own rights, if not quite what Nana would gift us later in Bali.
Joel's discovery, on previous visits, of hoppers... a traditional preparation, became a group favorite. Those are a cup-shaped pancake made of rice flour & coconut milk, were served plain, or holding a sambal, curry as a savory. A sweet fruit jam, or cooked cupping an egg made them special at breakfast.
They are versatilly delicious fun! But by the second day's huge platter-full arrived we requested they serve us fewer!
These two buildings housing guests were originally shops on the other side of the road, but were moved "brick by brick" to this garden when the well-known architect Geoffrey Bawa wanted to preserve their history. A third one usedonly by the staff, sat near the gate.
Our suite had an ante room with a center round table & rack for luggage with an open closet. The bedroom behind had a bath
closed by a very distressed door.
The very lofty bedroom space was filled by
a huge pair of golden horns, which I first assumed were artistically created, which they were... perhaps more so
when I ascertained that their art was natural & organically real. Magnificent! They rode high on a well wrought iron support built into the wall... a bedside table with crisp corners teaching me respect carefully climbing into bed...
Viewed from bed, the piece dominated the lofty volume of space above.
This handsome fixture lit the foyer to the stairway to the gallery.
Another pair of the horns, this time obviously sculptural, perched above the stairway, was becoming obviously strongly symbolic for the collector.
The gallery upstairs was fascinating space where we welcomed invitation from the owner's liaison, Nabeel, to have lemonade brought to us while we perused the eclectic collection in the cool open spaces under a lovely roof.
More large sculptures held the various generous spaces.
A folio of framed bird prints filled one wall, a handsome telescope danced in the center.
This painting fascinated me... while being rather fearsome!
It was tamed by a Buddha & a decomposing artifact...
While a hore guarded the rear.
A view of the jungle atmosphere extended from under the broad eves
Boutique 87 was a richly satisfying first respite from our home digs! We made several short adventures along its beach. Plus, it was a short trip to visit the garden & home of Geoffrey Bawa's brother whose landscape design incorporated sculptural elements. We were exploring much of the mid-century Sri Lancan art scene...
[see a future posting...]
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